Tuesday, February 17, 2015

The Living and the Dead

With the usual apologizes to Dodie Smith:  I write this sitting next to a saltwater pool in Cambodia.  A waterfall patters into it from a balcony above.  Surrounding the pool are a mixture of trees:  palms, bougainvillea, bamboo.  Some trees I can't identify, but they are by turns gnarled and youthful in appearance, with dusty dark and spiderweb-like fresh green leaves.  Two large earthenware pots are full of water and lotus flowers.  Enclosing the pool (beyond the trees) are the white-and-wooden walls of the boutique hotel we are staying in; with their orange roof tiles and dark wooden balconies, these buildings manage to exude an aura both cozy and sleek.  Black and orangey-cream tiles line the floor of the bar to my left in a checkerboard pattern.  A red Chinese lantern hangs from one of the taller trees, and in the pool, a medium-sized rubber yellow deer floats exhaustedly, happily, incongruously, on its side.

Today, I turned down what will probably be my only chance to see Angkor Wat.  On what will probably be my last day ever in Siem Reap (my aunt and I take the boat to Phnom Penh tomorrow), I spent most of the day inside, asleep.

Let me explain.